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Introduction
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Have
you ever found yourself listening to a car or home stereo and
didn't like what you were hearing and immediately reached for the
Treble (high frequency) and Bass (low frequency) knobs to adjust the
sound? If so...then you just stepped into the world of
equalization.
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Now
it's not my intent to try and cover every aspect of equalization in
this article, because there could never be enough written. I'm also
not going to focus on too much technical theory, because we're
guitarists right - just give us the basics. So I'm going to try and
write this article to be as simple to understand as possible.

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What
Is Sound Anyway? |
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In
order to better understand the principles of equalization for tone
manipulation, one needs to first understand the underlying nature of
the audio spectrum. To put this all simply, sounds are made up
of different frequencies. Different instruments sound the way they
do because of the complex manner in which the frequencies they
produce all add up. There are frequencies we can hear and those
which we cannot hear. Why? Because the human ear is designed to only
hear sounds that occur within a given frequency range.
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So
what frequency range can the human ear hear? A good, young, healthy,
and undamaged ear can hear frequencies in the range of approximately
20Hz - 20kHz. Frequencies are often expressed in Hz
(hertz) or kHz (kilohertz). For those who need to understand the
math, 5000Hz = 5kHz, or 1.2kHz = 1200Hz, etc. |
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Take
Note:
Things
start to get a little more interesting when we start to look at how
frequencies play their part in the guitar world. It helps to know
that the lowest E-string on a standard 6-string guitar is tuned to
82.41Hz. It also helps to know that guitar amp speakers are not
capable of producing too many frequencies above 4kHz. Guitar
speakers are designed with a limited frequency response and cannot
playback a full-range of frequencies such as recording monitors or a
P.A. system. I know this is over-simplifying things, but
Vettanarians should initially start off concerning themselves with
the frequency range between 80Hz - 4kHz (and perhaps a little
further on either side of this range if needed), when equalizing patches on their Vetta. |
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Guitar
String Frequencies
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E
= 82.41 Hz
A
= 110.0 Hz
D
= 146.8 Hz
G
= 196.0 Hz
B
= 246.9 Hz
E
= 329.6 Hz |
When
you consider the fundamental pitches of each guitar string, you
will notice that they are towards the lower-mid end of the frequency
spectrum. However, it is the actual harmonic overtone content of
each string which pushes its tone spectrum into the mid to high
frequency ranges. |
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20Hz |
40Hz |
80Hz |
160Hz |
320Hz |
640Hz |
1.2kHz |
2.5kHz |
5kHz |
10kHz |
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20kHz |
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Low |
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Mid |
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High |
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The Ten
Octaves of the Audio Spectrum |
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The
audio spectrum which in which we hear is often divided up
into 10 octaves to help define the particular musical,
acoustical, and psycho-acoustical qualities within. |
16 kHz |
20480 Hz |
Octave
10: Extreme highs, hiss, very little musical content here. |
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8 k |
10240
Hz |
Octave
9: Highs, treble, metallic brightness, brilliance, upper
musical content of guitar strings. |
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4 kHz |
5120 Hz |
Octave
8: Presence, upper end of tone spectrum for many instruments,
brightness. |
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2 kHz |
2560 Hz |
Octave
7: Upper Mid-Range. Hardness, bite, intensity, loudness,
definition. Major range of harmonic content for most
instruments. |
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1 kHz |
1280 Hz |
Octave
6: Mid-Range. Highest fundamental pitches reside here.
Beginning of upper harmonics. Major overtones for most
instruments. |
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500 Hz |
640 Hz |
Octave
5: Lower Mid-Range. Body and richness of sounds. Fullness.
Warmth. The primary treble of musical pitches resides here. |
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250 Hz |
320
Hz |
Octave
4: The "mud" range. Thickness and muddiness,
thump. |
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125 Hz |
160
Hz |
Octave
3: Upper Bass. Musical foundation for many instruments. All
speakers play back this octave. |
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62.5 Hz |
80
Hz |
Octave
2: Lower Bass. Bottom of musical pitches, primary bass energy.
Sonic foundation. Most loudspeakers can play back this octave. |
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31.25 Hz |
40
Hz |
Octave
1: Very Low Bottom End. Little musical content here, too low
to be played back by most loudspeakers. Non-pitched bass
sounds. |
| 20 Hz |
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Cutting Instead
of Boosting
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One
of the biggest patterns of EQ behavior that people often make is
that they tend to approach it by boosting the gain of frequencies
rather than lowering them. It's not that there's anything actually
wrong with boosting, but you can often achieve your tonal goal by
negative equalization - by rolling off or reducing an area of
frequencies rather than by boosting them.
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Sometimes
the tone (timbre) you are wanting to hear already exists within what
you are hearing. The best analogy for this is to consider a stone
sculpture. Think about how an artist can take a large piece of stone
and then begin carving away the areas of the rock that are not
needed to create the image they desire from within. This same
approach can apply to creating guitar tones as well.
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For
example, if you find yourself boosting both the highs and lows, you
can sometimes achieve the same (or better) results by scooping out
the mids instead. Keep in mind that any time you can reduce, rather
than boost frequencies, you are automatically helping to reduce
noise as a beneficial side-effect. Second, if you can achieve the
same results with one band of cut than two bands of boost, you have
saved yourself an extra band for later use, and you are helping the
original signal to sound more clear and clean.
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Take
Note:
When
adjusting an EQ's gain up/down, reductions will generally be larger
than boosts. Why? Because of the way in which our ears hear a change
in sound. Please keep in mind that boosting a band of frequencies will
tend to increase the overall signal level significantly, and if
overdone, this can result in unfavorable effects upon your tone. On
the opposite side of this, cutting a band of frequencies doesn't
change the overall signal level much at all.
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Graphic
Equalizers
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Graphic
equalizers are certainly a great tonal tool for shaping sound
spectrum, but they are not necessarily the best tool that could be
used. As you can see from the image below, the center frequencies
are set: 100Hz, 200Hz, 400Hz, 800Hz, 1.6kHz, 3.2kHz, and 6.4kHz.
Please realize that with a graphic equalizer, you are not
boosting/cutting just these specific frequencies alone, there are
other frequencies on either side of these set frequencies which will
be affected as well when you move the slider. In other words, these
sliders have a fixed center frequency (which you see) and a
fixed bandwidth (of which you don't really know - unless the
manual tells you).
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Anyone
who has spent time working with an EQ stomp box has probably
experienced at least one frustrating moment when you thought,
I can get real close to the sound I'm looking for, but it
seems the frequency I'm needing is in between two of these
sliders - such as 300Hz, or 650Hz, or 2.4kHz, etc. You get the
idea... |
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Even
the Vetta's Graphic EQ center frequencies are set:
LOW
= 80Hz
LOW
MID = 200HZ
HIGH
MID = 800HZ
HIGH
= 3kHz
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Take
Note:
Graphic EQs
limit your choices to specific center frequencies and pre-determined
bandwidths to boost or cut. But because of the fixed nature of these
guitar graphic-eq stomp boxes, they can teach you a thing or two
about which frequency areas you should be paying attention to.
When you look at most every eq stomp box like this, the frequencies
are typically the exact same (or very close) for a specific reason.
Why? Because many years of experience has taught design engineers
that these are the frequency areas that are most often needing to be
adjusted by guitarists.
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Parametric
Equalizers
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When
you want to get down to some serious frequency tweaking, the Vetta's
4 Band EQ is the tone tool of choice. Why? Because in addition to
the Low & High Shelving EQs, there are two bands of fully parametric
EQ. A parametric EQ is very powerful because it gives you complete
control over the center frequency, the width = Q, and the amount of
cut/boost. With a parametric EQ there are no longer limitations. You
are no longer limited to the pre-determined center frequencies used in a
Graphic EQ. So you can move them up and down the frequency range to dial into the specific frequencies (or area) that you want
to.
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Still
confused - don't worry, parametric equalizers always seem to confuse
and intimidate users, but they're really not that difficult to use
or understand. Probably the most confusing aspect of a parametric EQ
is the "Q" parameter, which just happens to be the real
power parameter behind this type of EQ.
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What
is "Q"
The
"Q" parameter is what
sets the width of the band of frequencies that will be boosted
or reduced. In other words, it determines the amount of frequencies on
either side of the center frequency. The basic idea behind the
"Q" parameter is this: why boost/cut frequencies that don't
need to be. By being able to control the actual width of the band
being boosted or cut, you have more flexibility to shape the EQ to fit
your needs.
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Understanding
Q Bandwidth
The
"Q" parameter is what
sets the actual width of the band of frequencies you can work
upon, anywhere from a very broad bandwidth, to a very narrow
bandwidth. You can see this for yourself from the images
below.
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Take
Note: The
images below
are simply meant to provide you with a visual representation
how the Q control of a parametric EQ allows you to widen or
narrow the bandwidth of frequencies you boost or cut. So don't
get hung up on looking at the Q numbers and bandwidths since
the Vetta only allows for Q settings
from 0.1 - 2.0, because these are more than enough to alter the
audio spectrum of your guitar tone. |
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Looking
at the Vetta Owner's Manual, many of you tech-heads may have
noticed what appears to be a typographical error regarding the
description of how the Q parameter works in the 4 Band EQ.
I've checked with Line 6 about this, and the original manual
described it wrong.
To
set the record straight:
The
implementation of Q in Vetta (and Vetta II) follows the normal
definition of Q, where the higher the number, the more narrow
the bandwidth, and the lower the number, the more wider the
bandwidth.
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Finding The
Sweet/Sour Spots
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One
of the biggest frustrations with applying EQ is that we don't often
know where to begin. Where exactly are the sweet spots that bring
out the life in the tone? Where are those annoying sour spots that
make us cringe? Should I boost or should I cut? Good questions - but
very difficult to answer. Learning to use EQ can be an art all unto
itself, and a very subjective one at that. But there is a
fundamental method to help you get into the ballpark.
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Effective
EQ involves finding those areas of the tone that may need to be
increased or decreased in strength. When you think a tone sounds too
muddy or too bright, those are typically areas of the tone which
contain more energy than surrounding areas.
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Suggested
Q Setting
In
general, start with a "Q" setting of 0.7 - 1.0
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The
simplest method to find sweet/sour spots is to turn up the gain
(about +10dB on the section of the equalizer you are using) then slowly
sweep the frequency control up and down. Try not to focus on the
overall sound itself, learn to listen for how the equalizer is
affecting just the frequency area you are sweeping across. Remember,
you are trying to dial into an area of frequencies (similar to a
radio station). When you hit that area of resonance - which is that
naturally occurring peak in the sound that already stands out as
good or bad to your ears, this area might benefit from being boosted
or cut. After you think you've got the right tonal color, then
re-adjust the Q parameter to try and trim the bandwidth to just the
right width that you need.
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Less
is more.
The
minimal amount of EQ is usually best. |
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For instance, if your looking for the
area that sounds "boxy" the boxiness will really jump out
at you when you sweep across it. Once you've found the area you are
looking for, then it's just a matter of deciding how much you want
to get rid of. Return the gain to zero, then start adjusting the
gain up/down until things sound like you want.
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Take
Note:
If
you use the Vetta's 4 Band EQ, you can increase your accuracy in
pinpointing the area of frequencies to be controlled by adjusting
the "Q" control for a very narrow bandwidth.
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Vetta Cab Models
As EQ
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Patch
programming habits may be hard to break. Many of us are probably
guilty of taking the easy (lazy) way out by just using the default
amp/cab settings which come up every time, but that doesn't
necessarily mean they're the best combination of amp, cab, and
parameter settings. With all the tonal versatility
that exists within the Vetta, experimentation will be the key to
tonal success. And possibly one of the most overlooked applications
of EQ are the cab models themselves.
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Experiment
with different cab models before reaching for the EQ
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How
many of the Vetta's cab models do we scroll right past and overlook
because our narrow thinking has pre-conditioned us to NOT even consider
using them? Don't
think of the Vetta's cab models in terms of their speaker size and
configuration, instead, think of them as 28 (different) preset EQ
templates which must be tried out with whichever amp model you
are working with. You may come to find out that the
"magical" tone you're striving for suddenly appears from
using a particular cab model you would have never
considered using previously.
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General Guitar
Equalization Tips
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| While
it is impossible to give EQ settings that would be
guaranteed to give you the "specific" results you
might desire, I've included the following
"generalized" eq tips for guitar. There are no
rules when trying to get the guitar sound you want. |
| Boosting
somewhere between 75 - 90Hz can help to bring out cabinet
clunk. Keep in mind that since the low E-string of the
guitar is around 82Hz, it's not necessarily a good idea to
boost the low frequencies below this note unless it helps
you get your sound. |
| Cutting
somewhere between 100 - 250Hz can help to resolve a boomy or
boxy sound. Try a "Q" setting of 1.0 - 1.4 |
| Cutting
somewhere between 160 - 320Hz can help reduce a muddy tone.
Try a "Q" setting of 0.7 - 1.0 |
| Bite
can be added somewhere between 2 - 6kHz. |
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EQ
Food for Thought
I've
noticed that quite a few Vetta patches seem to use the exact
same amp model, cab, and parameter settings for both AMP1/2.
And while this obviously will sound louder and more full to
most, I've often noticed it can lean towards sounding less
distinct and less clear when compared to using just one amp
model with it's volume cranked via the Post
Compressor.
Two
absolutely "identical" amps are simply adding
their frequency responses together, which can can lead to an
over-abundance of frequencies in more than one area...and
these areas can in turn start to push the speakers enough to
where the tone starts to sound worse, not better.
Therefore,
it might be a good idea to experiment with subtle
equalization "cuts" in some frequency areas of one
amp model so that it will still sound almost the same, but
that it will compliment the final sound when combined with
the second amp model. |
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Take
Note:
It
doesn't do too much good to add any really high-end boost,
because a guitar speaker cannot produce frequencies much
over 4kHz. But remember, rules were made to be broken, and
if it works for you, then go for it. |
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Frequency Areas
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| The
following EQ lexicon in by no means comprehensive and
authoritative. Equalization can be defined with a variety of
frequency vocabulary. However, many of these terms are
fairly universal in the way in which they help our minds to
grasp the realm of frequencies. Remember, many of these
regions can overlap and often do. |
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Boomy
- low lows, typically in the region of 40-60 Hz. |
Telephony
- a concentration of frequencies around 1.5-2.5 kHz. |
Sparkle
- extremely high brilliance almost beyond hearing, around
15-20 kHz. |
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Fat
- region just above boomy, about 60-150 Hz. |
Cutting/Biting
- frequencies which cut through, about 2.5-4 kHz. |
Brightness
- can be achieved by a global shelving boost of everything
above 10 kHz. |
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Woofy
- in the region of 125-250 Hz. |
Presence
- anywhere from 3-6 kHz can make a sound more present. |
Darkness
- the opposite of brightness, a general lack of highs at 10
kHz and above. |
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Puffy
- about 250-500 Hz. |
Sibilance
- the "s" sounds of vocals often found at 7-10
kHz. |
Muddiness
- excessive low end and also low mids, woofy and puffy
combined. |
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Warm
- often found between 200-400 Hz. |
Zizz
- a pleasantly biting high-end or brightness, around 10-12
kHz. |
Thinness
- the opposite of muddiness, a general lack of lows and low
mid frequencies. |
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Boxy
- usually found between 500 hz and 1 kHz. |
Glass
- very translucent but noticable brilliance around 12-15
kHz. |
Openness
- a quality of having sufficient highs and lows. |
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Remember
that equalization is extremely subjective and totally
dependent upon each and every guitar tone being worked on.
Therefore, one rarely can say boost or cut "x"
frequency by "x" number of dB and have it apply to
every patch in a generalized (or specific) way. |
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Equalization
Is A Fundamental Practice That Must Be Mastered
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